Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) Extract vs. Synthetic Surfactants-Effect on Skin-Mimetic Models.
Our skin is continuously exposed to different amphiphilic substances capable of interaction with its lipids and proteins. We describe the effect of a saponin-rich soapwort extract and of four commonly employed synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on different human skin models. Two human skin cell lines were employed: normal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (A375). The liposomes consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3, mimicking the cell membrane of keratinocytes and melanoma cells were employed as the second model. Using dynamic light scattering (DLS), the particle size distribution of liposomes was analyzed before and after contact with the tested (bio)surfactants. The results, supplemented by the protein solubilization tests (albumin denaturation test, zein test) and oil emulsification capacity (using olive oil and engine oil), showed that the soapwort extract affects the skin models to a clearly different extent than any of the tested synthetic surfactants. Its protein and lipid solubilizing potential are much smaller than for the three anionic surfactants (SLS, ALS, SLES). In terms of protein solubilization potential, the soapwort extract is comparable to CAPB, which, however, is much harsher to lipids.
['Jurek|Ilona|I|', 'Szuplewska|Aleksandra|A|', 'Chudy|Michał|M|0000-0001-8530-406X', 'Wojciechowski|Kamil|K|0000-0001-7693-9469']
D015060:1,2-Dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine D001622:Betaine D032701:Biomimetics D002460:Cell Line D002470:Cell Survival D002784:Cholesterol D045703:Emulsifying Agents D006801:Humans D006863:Hydrogen-Ion Concentration D015603:Keratinocytes D008081:Liposomes D008954:Models, Biological D010316:Particle Size D010936:Plant Extracts D029750:Saponaria D012503:Saponins D012867:Skin D012967:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate D013501:Surface-Active Agents D014315:Triterpenes D015028:Zein
keratinocytes HaCaT melanoma cells A375 liposomes zein test albumin test saponins