Spotlight on Turkish cuisine
Food encompasses culture, art and people management. It plays a central role in life, says Turkish celebrity chef and restaurateur Ramazan Bingöl.

“Our journey starts and ends with food: from births and weddings to deaths and funerals, even in times of war and peace. When we eat, it isn’t merely for sustenance and getting nutrition. Food and eating habits become a conduit of treasured memories, reflections and expressions of our emotions and societal bonds,” he says.

That is why he staunchly advocates the preservation of culinary history and traditions, saying, “It’s important for every society to strive to retain their culinary traditions and recipes in order to keep their legacy alive. If the whole world eats only fast food, all will be lost!”

Ramazan was in Malaysia in conjunction with Turkish Cuisine Week to promote and celebrate Turkish culinary heritage and foster a greater appreciation for Turkish cuisine and culture. The veteran chef and restaurateur conducted a cooking demonstration in collaboration with culinary school Le Cordon Bleu in Petaling Jaya, with Salim Yüksel, Türkiye Ambassador to Kuala Lumpur as the guest of honour. The presentation centred around the rich flavours of Turkish Aegean cuisine and provided the students a unique opportunity to witness and taste Turkish recipes.

The beautiful landscape of Türkiye’s Aegean coast not only attracts attention with its magnificent scenery, but is also known for its deep-rooted history and healthy food culture. These coastal regions are famed for vegetables such as artichokes, zucchini blossoms, local herbs and abundant seafood, as well as centuries-old olive trees and vibrant olive oil industry.

Ramazan demonstrating the Tel Kadayif at Le Cordon Bleu.

Passion for cooking

Born in 1967 in Biracik of Sanlıurfa province, Ramazan attended primary school in Istanbul but had to leave school and start working at an early age. The sixth child in a family of seven children, he reveals that two of his older siblings also share his passion for cooking.

“I became interested in cooking because I love to eat!”

When he was in his 20s, Ramazan tried his hands at hairdressing but after failing to make the cut, he switched to cooking. His apprenticeship meant learning to hold knives correctly and having proper cutting techniques, in addition to handling menial tasks such as peeling potatoes and chopping onions.

The first dish Ramazan learnt to cook was lentil soup.

“Food, scents and memories are closely interlinked. Until now, the smell and taste of lentil soup still trigger memories of the time when my family was so poor, my mother had to take stale bread from the bakery to thicken the soup. When you have a good or bad experience with a certain food or dish, encountering it again will bring back those memories.

“In Turkish households, women still do most of the cooking. For major festivals like Eid, family matriarchs will diligently prepare traditional dishes such as Ashoura or Noah’s pudding (rich, sweet dessert), among others. However, the men will be tasked with cooking the meat on certain occasions like family picnics.

“Nowadays, the task of cooking is shared by both women and men in more modern Turkish households. Social media have also helped to fuel greater interest among the young towards Turkish food, encouraging more gastronomic explorations,” he says.

Besides cooking, chefs should know mathematics, especially the golden ratio, Ramazan opines.

“Beyond ingredients and recipes, it is the guiding principle of balance and harmony in cooking − understanding proportions, textures and flavours − for aesthetically pleasing and delicious dishes. The golden ratio helps chefs achieve that perfect blend of ingredients and technique, ensuring excellence and balance in every dish. You’d be surprised to know that not every chef is aware of this golden ratio.”

Industry expert

With three decades of culinary mastery, Ramazan, 57, has written three books, sharing his wealth of knowledge and experience: Restaurant Management − How to Manage A Restaurant?, The Relationship Between the Employer and the Worker in Restaurant Management and Recipes from the Kitchen.

Besides his restaurant business consultancy, Ramazan is a member of Istanbul Esenler Provincial Council, and a member of the Assembly of Commerce Chamber and Union of Chambers and Commodity Exchanges of Turkey. He has also contributed articles to Türkiye’s Star newspaper and Istanbul Chamber of Commerce’s newspaper on topics such as service and people management, restaurant organisation and kitchen culture. Today, he still writes for Yeni Safak newspaper, and often conducts lectures on management and organisation sectors at conferences and training seminars.

Ramazan’s reverence for Turkish cuisine shines through his dishes, each narrating a story transcending mere sustenance. His rendition of the traditional Tarhana Soup, for instance, evokes a rich tapestry interwoven with the philosophy and ancestral roots of this speciality.

“For Turks who were nomadic in the old days, this soup wasn’t just nourishment but a reservoir of energy, carried through generations.”

Having traversed 52 countries, his culinary curiosity knows no bounds and his expertise extends beyond the kitchen. He stresses on the importance of cooking techniques, using the right tools and ingredients at their prime to ensure a symphony of flavours.

“It’s imperative to use ingredients in season and at their prime,” says Ramazan. “Using the correct tools and techniques are also important. For instance, we use copper pots and pans for Turkish cooking for the gradual build-up of heat, essential for our style of cooking. When we grill meat or kebab, we rely on the coals’ slow heat to achieve the desired results.

“Besides monitoring the degree of heat and temperature, seasoning plays a key role in cooking. Peppers, black pepper, cardamon, mint and thyme are commonly used in Turkish cooking. Everything must come together in harmony, or else the dish won’t turn out well.

“Lastly, food must be cooked with love. If you’re in a bad mood, most likely the food you cooked won’t taste as good. Whatever we cook reflects our state of mind. When all the elements mentioned are in sync, the food will be delicious,” he notes.

Cooking for famous people and VIPs is par for the course too for him.

“My most memorable encounter was with (Türkiye president) Recep Tayyip Erdogan last year. He’s a kind man who knows how to appreciate good food.”

Ramazan, who has four children and two grandchildren, has no plans to retire. Whilst his son helms the family restaurant empire, his daughters pursue diverse paths, from sociology to gastronomy. Ramazan plans to open his third restaurant in a year’s time in the resort town of Marmaris. His current two restaurants are in Istanbul.

During his spare time, he enjoys tending to his bonsai collection, including a prized 100-year-old tree. He also snorkels and goes spearfishing for perch and octopus whenever the opportunity arises.

For Ramazan, cooking isn’t just a skill; it is an art form, a celebration of culture and a legacy to be cherished for generations to come.
StarExtra
Veteran industry expert talks about his culinary journey.