Showcase of French finesse
A sleek bar juxtaposed against a floor-to-ceiling, backlit wine display on the ground floor caught my eye the minute I stepped into Chateau Dionne. Inside was the intimate dining area and open-plan kitchen where the culinary team plies their skills. There’s more art gallery-style dining space, complete with a walk-in wine cellar as well as elegantly furnished private rooms upstairs.

In line with Chateau Dionne’s credo of classic dining with contemporary and seasonal accents, partner and executive chef Andy Choy invites gourmands to discover his thoughtfully composed degustation-style and a la carte menus.

Cold Capellini with Kaviari Kristal Caviar and Truffle Ponzu.

Our first taste of the chef’s brilliant creativity shone from the get-go via the exquisite amuse bouche of Gruyere Cheese with Basil Powder Choux and Crispy Parmesan Tuille. A creamy filling of gruyere, mascarpone and mozzarella burst forth when we bit into the delicate choux pastry; the melding of savoury and sweet was utterly beguiling.

The opening buzz continued with airy-light, flaky mini croissants and freshly baked French Baguette with canelé-shaped Truffle Butter, so good that we had a hard time restraining ourselves from eating more.

According to Choy, the signature Cold Capellini with Kaviari Kristal Caviar and Truffle Ponzu was created for a customer who had tried a similar dish at a fine-dining restaurant in the city.

Yuzu Sorbet with Limoncello and Sansho palate cleanser.

“I actually refused to make the dish as it wasn’t French but when the lockdown started, the same customer persisted and promised to lend her support if we made this. Eventually, we caved in and the dish not only went viral but brought other diners to our door. Despite our attempts to omit it from the menu, customers keep asking for it and now it’s one of the top draws at Chateau Dionne.”

Lightly dressed with tantalising truffle-infused ponzu sauce, the chilled pasta left us singing its praises. Hot on the heels of that stellar speciality came the deftly prepared Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Port Wine Shallot and Almond Florentine. The foie gras was perfectly seared; the nuttiness of crushed almond along with the caramelised port wine shallot and crisp almond florentine provided lovely texture and taste contrasts.

Gruyere Cheese with Basil Powder Choux and Crispy Parmesan Tuille.

Boeuf En Croute, the French equivalent of Beef Wellington, comprising Baked Wagyu Tenderloin with Duxelles and Sauce Perigueux, is another mainstay at Chateau Dionne.

“Demand for it surged when Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant opened in Malaysia. We didn’t want customers making comparisons so we removed it from our menu, but it’s here to stay as our diners love it.”

Petit fours of chocolate truffle and the restaurant’s famed canelé.

Encased within flaky pastry and encircled by chicken mousse and mushroom duxelles, the Wagyu tenderloin with its pink core was meltingly tender. Its deliciousness was further enhanced by a sumptuous Madeira and black truffle sauce.

After a refreshing Yuzu Sorbet with Limoncello and Sansho palate cleanser, they brought out the Grand Marnier Souffle Dark Chocolate Orange and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Pan Seared Foie Gras with Port Wine Shallot and Almond Florentine. — Photos: LOW LAY PHON/The Star

Choy shares how throughout his culinary journey, he listens to what his customers want.

“When I returned to Malaysia, only a few restaurants served traditional French souffle. Honestly, I was sceptical when we included it into the menu but once word got out to our customers, many came specifically to try it.

“To date, we have served close to 13,500 souffles and it remains one of our signature specialities that’s a firm favourite. Even Chateau Dionne in Shanghai has it on their menu.”

Grand Marnier Souffle Dark Chocolate Orange and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Considered the epitome of the art of French cooking, the souffle came piping hot to our table; its delicately fluffy structure rising beyond the ramekin rim. A drizzle of Grand Marnier, house-made orange compote and vanilla ice cream completed the divine dessert. Sampling its ethereally light texture was akin to eating a subtly sweet cloud that magically dissolved in our mouths, leaving behind a lingering, mildly boozy aftertaste in its wake.

Capping off our lunch on a decadent note were petit fours of chocolate truffle and the restaurant’s famed canelé.

Chateau Dionne will be celebrating its fourth anniversary this August, so expect to see more culinary magic unfold.
StarExtra
A sleek bar juxtaposed against a floor-to-ceiling, backlit wine display on the ground floor caught my eye the minute I stepped into Chateau Dionne. Inside was the intimate dining area and open-plan kitchen where the culinary team plies their skills. There’s more art gallery-style dining space, complete with a walk-in wine cellar as well as elegantly furnished private rooms upstairs.